We were staying at Leenaun in Connamara recently for a school reunion of my husband’s class from over four decades ago! I hadn’t been there for many years, and it was wonderful to see how unspoilt it is; still with its beautiful golden and purple landscape at this time of year.
Leenaun, also spelled Leenane, is a small village on the Killary Fjord.
Our group went on a boat trip that took us from just outside Leenaun village along the fjord to the edge of the sea, with a relaxing view of hills and water.
We were able to park our camper van right beside the harbour at Leenaun, while the others stayed in the Leenane Hotel. Hamiltons is a friendly pub in the centre of the village with a cheerful stove and plenty of Guinness.
Victorian Walled Garden at Kylemore Abbey
I particularly enjoyed seeing the restored Victorian walled garden at Kylemore Abbey, definitely a secret abandoned place brought back to life after decades of neglect. It was created by Mitchell Henry, a doctor from England with Irish connections, in 1868. It was a huge and typical Victorian garden of its time with glasshouses full of peaches, bananas and other exotic fruits and vegetables, all heated with iron pipes running from a boiler or furnace.
Unfortunately, tragedy struck when one of Mr Henry’s daughters was killed in carriage accident on the estate. He sold the property in 1902 and it fell into a decline without the adequate funds to keep it going.
By the 1980s the walled garden resembled a jungle of tangled trees and undergrowth, desperately in need of restoration.
The Benedictine nuns of Kylemore, a team of horticulturists and grants of funding helped to bring the walled garden back to something like its former glory. Now we can admire the head gardener’s cottage, the potting shed and even some of the glasshouses.
To me, it is like a beautiful green and flowering oasis in the wild Connemara landscape. Even the one kilometre walk under trees from the house to garden is spectacular. (There’s a bus for those who don’t want to walk)
Mitchell Henry planted eight Monterey Pines in a group along that path, one for each of his children. One tree died, but the rest of them live on in their memory.
Connemara is an inspiring place to visit, with stirring countryside, long sandy beaches, mountain walks and friendly restaurants for anyone looking for peace and beauty.
Suzanne Winterly writes dual timeline mystery novels.